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(303,381 sq mi), and the largest wholly or partly within the Southern Hemisphere and Oceania.
The tree line is around 4,000 m (13,100 ft) elevation and the tallest peaks contain permanent equatorial glaciers—which have been retreating since at least 1936.
Various other smaller mountain ranges occur both north and west of the central ranges.
The name is one of several toponyms sharing similar etymologies, ultimately meaning "land of the blacks" or similar meanings, in reference to the dark skin of the inhabitants.
The Dutch, who arrived later under Jacob Le Maire and Willem Schouten, called it Schouten island, but later this name was used only to refer to islands off the north coast of Papua proper, the Schouten Islands or Biak Island.
Other than bats and some two dozen indigenous rodent genera, there are no pre-human indigenous placental mammals.
The island of New Guinea lies to the east of the Malay Archipelago, with which it is sometimes included as part of a greater Indo-Australian Archipelago.The name was used until 2001, when the name Papua was again used for the island and the province.The name Irian, which was originally favored by natives, is now considered to be a name imposed by the authority of Jakarta.When the Portuguese and Spanish explorers arrived in the island via the Spice Islands, they also referred to the island as Papua.